sewing

Moss Making Month

April 4, 2014

Real-life sewing/knitting bff Sara and I have decided that all we’re going to wear this spring/summer are Moss skirts, slouchy tops and Birks. The problem is that I only have one Moss and she has none, so we’ve declared April to be Moss Making Month. We’re going to crank out as many as we can in that time period. You can follow us on Instagram (here and here) for behind-the-scenes stuff because shit’s gonna get exciting. I’m even attempting a leather version and we’ve roped some local friends into joining the fun.

moss making month

Here’s my pile of potential fabrics. I want a light denim version with gold topstitching, a textured black skirt, grey twill and I’m attempting one in leather!! I really want a black leather mini, so wish me luck. I also just snagged some Steven Alan twills from Mood Fabrics. I couldn’t resist!! Like this one. Ugh. So good.

soon-to-be-moss-skirts

So grab your pattern here and use #mossmakingmonth on social media so we can get inspired by everyone’s creations!

Basics

February 20, 2014

basics

I’ve been sewing a lot lately.

Knitting was my jam for a while there. It was my evening activity and I was cranking through hats and starting sweaters. Then, sadly, a skein of mismarked yarn led to ripping out 13″ of fair-isle. I’m still not over it. Instead of throwing my yarn stash out the window, I turned to my sewing machines for solace.

pintucks

Pattern: Papercut Patterns Ohh La Leggings
Fabric: ponte from Colorado Fabrics

I love this pattern. My friend Kristin has some really awesome pintucked grey leggings that she thrifted a while ago and I was really disappointed that I couldn’t grab my own. LUCKILY I SEW. I ordered the pattern and bought what I thought was a pretty decent ponte. The fabric has been bagging out, so I would definitely recommend using a stretchier material or going down a size. And there’s already a bit of vanity sizing go on here… I still wear them often and really love the fit.

undies

Pattern: OhhLulu Ginger Undies + Jasmine Bra + Cloth Habit Rosy Ladyshorts
Fabric: Unbelievably soft rayon from Emma One Sock and black organic cotton from Michael Levine. Organic is not synonymous with soft, fyi. I didn’t know that. Trims from Sew Sassy.

I find so much joy in making underthings. This is my second set (see the first one here) and I’m already getting much better. The elastic isn’t totally flush on my last pair of Ginger’s which is a huge bummer because they’re not super comfortable. This time I made sure to sew the elastic correctly and I added really cute ladder trim to the front seams.

Rosy Ladyshorts are my current favorite. They’re easy to make and extremely flattering.

The big mistake I made with this set was using a layer of fiberfill in the Jasmine bra. I need to just let a bralette be a bralette. Jasmine is at its best in a super comfy knit. I added structure and it doesn’t need it.

sloppy jo tee

Pattern: Papercut Patterns Sloppy Josephine
Fabric: old, amazing, soft, slouchy, possibly rayon from deeeep in the stash.

Josephine is indeed very sloppy. I cut a small then took out 2″ from the CB and created a 2″ tuck in the CF. I like a slouchy top, but feel uncomfortable if it’s off of my shoulders! With the changes, it’s probably my favorite top.

Leggings + Sloppy Jo in action! I wore both while participating in the Seamly.co Versalette Challenge.

sloppy jo tee ohh laa leggings

I also made a couple of circle scarves, two Hemlock’s with sweater knits and another Purl Bee Simple Pleasures hat.

Now that I have a few basics completed I’m ready to tackle some more difficult projects. I have some heavy duty YKK zippers and a hide of black garment leather, so we’ll see what happens.

Simple Sweater

October 6, 2013

I’ve been away from home for the last week. I went road-tripping with my mom to see family in southern Utah. It’s one of my favorite places and I picked up a few goodies that I’ll be sharing later. In the meantime, here’s a sweater:

close-up

pattern: hemlock tee
fabric: synthetic blend sweater knit from newly named Colorado Fabrics in Littleton. I maybe paid $8 for two yards.(They have some great ones, so if you live in the area I suggest you peruse their bins.)
mods: I just used a different fabric.

hemlock

hemlock

boots: emma ankle boot // jeans: j. crew toothpick jean // earrings: brass chevron earrings

I finished my Hemlock a couple of weeks ago and wear it all of the time. It was originally designed for a tissue weight jersey, but as it gets colder I thought a sweater knit might be more practical. I think the result is the perfect slouchy sweater. It’s going to be hard not to make ten of these.

I didn’t finish the ends and it’s slowly unraveling. Any suggestions? Should I just serge them then fold over the hems to topstitch? I like how they roll, but I want the sweater to last longer than a month.

Moss

September 26, 2013

When a project looks pretty much perfect I get an adrenaline rush. I will never jump out of a plane, but I think I get a similar sensation from impeccable topstitching.

i'm a pretty huge fan of this skirt.

orange hair: light mountain henna in red // top: American Apparel
necklace: scalloped brass // shoes: Sam Edelman(similar)

back
functional pockets
PatternGrainline Studio Moss Mini
Fabric: Stash denim that I’ve had for years! YAY! So pumped that I used it.
Mods: None! I cut a size too small, but guess what? A size too small just makes it a high-waisted Moss Skirt! No big deal. ALSO, I didn’t have any grey or blue topstitching thread so I used the triple stitch function on my machine. I think it looks just as good if not better because there weren’t any tension issues.

moss mini

moss mini

moss mini

The zipper was really easy to install thanks to Jen’s tutorial.

I tried three times to stitch a buttonhole. I don’t know what is up with my machine, but we’re experiencing a pretty serious problem. It kept jamming or even going the wrong way when I had it on the automatic function. In retrospect, I’m glad it didn’t work out because I think this particular version looks better with a clean front and a hook and eye closure.

There will be several more of these in my future. I can’t recommend the pattern enough.

Stripey Underthings

September 17, 2013

I was discouraged after my last attempt at bra making. The sewing part isn’t necessarily difficult (minus the channels which I did not attempt), but I knew that it would take several muslins to get the fit right. And that’s for each pattern. I wanted a small win. When I saw this Jasmine soft bra on Shona Stitches blog, I immediately purchased and printed the pattern.

Jasmine consists of only three pattern pieces and contains so much potential.

ginger + jasmine

This set was initially a muslin. I just wanted to get a feel for the pattern and sewing elastic. As it came together I started to really like it! It’s funny because I’m so inspired by Ohh Lulu’s gorgeous, feminine sets (Sequins?!?! Are you kidding me?!?! SWOON.), but made such a boyish set myself.

ginger + jasmine / detail

After cutting out the cups I realized I would need to do an FBA to fit my, ahem, enhanced bustline. I kind of used tips from Amy at Cloth Habit’s sewalong and kind of winged it. I just slashed and spread. It worked because it’s a knit. A woven wouldn’t have been the right shape. Here’s my very non-technical result:

fba

I used a really old, poly blend stash knit. The black lining is organic cotton from Michael Levine found here. It’s the only plain cotton knit in my stash, so I’m going to grab a few colors to have on hand for linings. I especially love the wide, plush bra straps that I purchased from Sew Sassy. They are so soft and comfortable!

ginger + jasmine / back

ginger + jasmine / back detail

The bra is too loose around the band (even though I trimmed an inch from the back). I think it’s due to the stretchiness of my knit. I thought lining it with the black cotton would stabilize it a bit, but it’s still stretchy. That’s good though because as I said above, the cups wouldn’t have fit otherwise. It fits well enough and is so soft and comfortable that I’ll wear it at home. In the future I’ll grade the pattern down for a snugger fit.

And let’s not forget the undies! I paired my Jasmine bra with Ginger high-waisted bottoms. I think they are adorable and the fit is really flattering. I could actually add an 1” or so to the top since I’m tall. They were really easy to put together, but I need to work on my zig-zag topstitching. It doesn’t completely cover the elastic, so the elastic flares out and there are places where it bunched as I was sewing over bulky areas.

I’m officially hooked. There will be way more sewn underpants on this blog. Have you attempted them yet? How do you feel about sewing underwear? I’m looking forward to being good enough to cut into my gorgeous Merckwaerdigh sets and stashed silks.

The Green Silk Dress

September 11, 2013

I can say the green silk dress because I’m fairly confident I won’t be making two of these.

ohhh hiiii!! check out my handmade silk dress. nbd.

back

thumbs up!

This is my first time sewing with silk, so I’m awfully proud of myself right now. There are tons of issues – it’s already snagged (thanks cat!) and the front wrap is totally off-grain, but WHO CARES! I made a silk dress. With PLEATS. Despite those concerns, the dress can and will be worn in public, so I count it as a success.

Pattern: Vogue 1344
Material: silk georgette in jelly bean green and silk habotai in peppermint green for the lining. It’s still too sheer and needs a slip.
Modifications: I added an inch to the bodice and the skirt. It’s still short. I used the pattern’s finished measurements to determine my size. I went with a 6. The bodice gapes – it’s totally pinned in the photos – but otherwise seems to fit. I also omitted the ruffle.

innards

pleats

The hem was kind of a nightmare. Instead of following instructions, I opened the (french-seamed) sides back up then used my roller hem foot. It worked surprisingly well on the georgette, but not so well on the habotai. That’s a hidden hot mess I have to learn to live with.

I really like the pattern even though it’s a bit more feminine than what I normally wear.

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